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Portable Food

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Promising explorations of the foods we encounter travelling, Portable Foods was selected as the topic for 2022, the year in which symposiasts could after a two year hiatus gather for discussion and enjoyment at the 2022 Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery.

Fascinated by the meals possible on rolling trains and zooming jets, the symposium included analyses of the history and culture of dining in mobile spaces. Containing papers on diverse topics, including a study of luxury and historical imperialism, then moving to the food served on twentieth-century Dutch airplanes, and the issues of safe guarding with gender differences in twenty-first-century Indian train compartments, the studies encompassed all kinds of travel foods, both of exploration and nomadic life, from pemmican and penguin meat to achar and qurut.

Published: Jul 4, 2023

Book Contributors

Section Chapter Authors
Foreword Mark McWilliams
Chapter 1
Dietary Advice for Travellers from the Mid-Sixteenth Century to Early Seventeenth Century with Two Test Cases: Michel de Montaigne and Fynes Moryson Ken Albala
Chapter 2
We Are Open, Says the City Tamar Babuadze
Chapter 3
Urban Nomads and Vagabond Food: Eating Away from the Table in Nineteenth- Century France Janet Beizer
Chapter 4
When the Lord Eats Away from the Table: Outdoor Food in Indian Gaudiya Vaishnavism Tanushree Bhowmik
Chapter 5
Cunard and Collins: Portable Food and Evolving Notions of Customer Service at Sea, 1840-1880 Andrea Broomfield
Chapter 6
From ‘Peanut Weddings’ to ‘Beef Stands’: The Socio-Culinary History of Chicago’s ‘Italian Beef’ Anthony F. Buccini
Chapter 7
Achar: An Unexpected Stowaway on the Ships of the Dutch East India Company Kathleen Burke
Chapter 8
Food for Travel, Travel for Food: The Story of Ekiben Voltaire Cang
Chapter 9
The Raw and the Disordered: Portable Feasts, Blood, and Raw Meat Salads in Contemporary Political Movements in Thailand Nattha Chuenwattana, Chonlatorn Wongrussame
Chapter 10
Savour the Flavour: A Portable History of Instant Coffee Julia Fine
Chapter 11
Mobile Gastronomies: A Case Study of Food on Wheels Culture in Hyderabad, South India Kashyapi Ghosh, V. Vamshi Krishna Reddy
Chapter 12
An Exploration of Food Mobility through the Cultural Practice of Koseli in Contemporary Nepal Binti Gurung
Chapter 13
Fair Food to Walk With Peter Hertzmann
Chapter 14
Dispatches from the Chicken Sandwich Wars Michael Johnson
Chapter 15
Istanbul’s Portable Food Practices: The Case of Dolma Piril Kadirgan
Chapter 16
Provisioning for Adventures: The Meanings of Paddington Bear’s Marmalade Sandwiches Laura Kitchings
Chapter 17
Serving the Global Nation: Menus from the Royal Dutch Airlines Charlotte Kleyn, Aimee Plukker
Chapter 18
‘No kind of food? Just rubbish?’: Food Options and Family Meals of Visitors to Canadian Prisons Else Marie Knudsen
Chapter 19
Eating in Public in Antiquity: Honorable or Obscene? Joshua Lovinger
Chapter 20
Food for the Final Journey: Feeding the Soul in Hindu Death Rituals Priya Mani
Chapter 21
Picnicking in Iran: From Cemeteries to Ski Slopes, Caves, Traffic Circles, and Beaches Nader Mehravari
Chapter 22
Food on the Move: Commensality in an Indian Train Compartment Shirin Mehrotra
Chapter 23
An Army Marches on Its Stomach: Portable Foods in War and Peace Johanna Mendelson Forman
Chapter 24
Going to the Gahambar: Tradition and Invention in Parsi Community Feasts Meher Mirza
Chapter 25
The Perils and Promises of Portability: Sweets and Snacks in Modernizing Japan Tatsuya Mitsuda
Chapter 26
A Rational Approach: Portable and Practical Eating ‘Beyond the Seas’ Jacqui Newling
Chapter 27
Hoosh, Dogs, and Seal Meat: The Role of Food in the Race to the South Pole Diana Noyce
Chapter 28
The ‘tacos de canasta’ (Basket Tacos) in the University: An Example of the Close Relationship between Informality and Mobility Ayari G. Pasquier Merino, M. Fernanda Estrada Gonzalez
Chapter 29
From the Steppe to Space: The Portable Power of Qurut Simi Rezai-Ghassemi
Chapter 30
Cooking Summer by the Beach: Rulebreaking, Modernity, and Wellness Policies in Three 1960s Egyptian Cookbooks Salma Serry
Chapter 31
Pemmican: An Ideal Trail Food C. Thomas Shay
Chapter 32
'The Clever Dining Car Conductor’: Creating a Luxury Dining Experience on the Move in Britain, 1879-1948 Chloe Shields
Chapter 33
Connected Food: Preserving Traditional Food Practices via Portable Foods Sevgi Mutlu Sirakova
Chapter 34
Portable Poetic Commensality: Reflections on the Use of Food Language in Ancient Israel’s Pilgrimage Songs (Psalms 120–134) Michelle A. Stinson
Chapter 35
Travelling Silver for Those Not to the Manor Born: Old Sheffield Plate and Electro- plated Silver in Travel Equipage and Cutlery, from 1730 to the Belle Epoque Carolyn Tillie
Chapter 36
Food for Walking: On the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro Jaime Iram Vargas Barrientos